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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.